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Discover five lambic brewery tastings, plus scenic walks and great places to stay
Geuze’s secret? It’s in the Pajottenland and Zenne River Valley air. Wild yeast swirls invisibly through the rural area on the outskirts of Brussels, sneakily seeping into the lambic brewers’ open vats at night.
Almost nothing has changed since Bruegel’s day when the Renaissance artist would visit the gorgeous rolling landscape of farm horses and watermills in search of inspiration. And there’s no better time than Lambic Month – from 25 October to 24 November - to visit on foot and discover the craft of brewing. The whole region is abuzz with things to see and do. So, why not stick around for an overnight stay?
Discover these five breweries, which invite you to taste their zesty craft beer for yourself, while our walks and accommodation tips will entice you to further explore the area.
1. Boon Brewery (Lembeek, Halle)
Frank Boon revived the brewing tradition in the 1970s. Still, the first traces of what is now known as the Boon Brewery, date back to 1680. Visit one of the region’s biggest family-run lambic breweries for a tour, a souvenir at the beer shop, and a pint at the cosy BOON Bar. This brewery is one of only a handful still using the ‘turbid mashing’ method, lambic’s oldest brewing tradition. It’s pretty goopy, so the Flemish also refer to it – tongue-in-cheek – as the slijmmethode, aka the ‘sludge method’. It sounds icky, but don’t let that put you off. The final flavour is pure gold – go taste for yourself!
The Alambic Walk - 7.1 km
Head out from the heart of Lembeek on this 7.1-km journey to the Malakoff Estate. The tower ruins look authentically medieval, but nothing could be further from the truth. Is Lembeek a bastardisation of the old ‘alembic’, a distilling device? No one knows for sure. Set out and come home via Lembeek Station. The Alambic Walk >
Your stay
Spend the night at B&B Villa Servais, a stately villa commissioned by cellist and composer François Servais. Follow the canal from here towards Lembeek, where you’ll pass a giant graffiti wall. www.villaservais.be
2. Den Herberg (Buizingen, Halle)
Bart Devillé and his wife and seven (!) kids are brewing wizards. But they don’t stop at geuze: they also brew a whole range of other beers. Drop by for a taste at the pub-brewery Den Herberg. It’s the kind of cosy, mom-and-pop business that has all but disappeared. But don’t underestimate this brewery or its beer: they export their craft beers all the way to Italy, Brazil, and even China.
The Lambiekstoemper Walk - 9.6 km
Descend at Halle station. You’ll find yourself on the winding Zenne Trail in no time, headed towards the trees of Buizingen’s Kluis Forest [Kluisbos]. Eventually, you’ll wind up back in town on your way to the famous St Martin’s Basilica. Curious to know what a lambiekstoemper is? Aside from being a lambic fan club, it originally refers to the tool people used to crush a sugar cube into a cold glass of sour lambic or geuze. Halle Station is the start and end of your journey. The Lambiekstoemper Walk >
Your stay
Halle’s Les Eleveurs is an elegant hotel with 16 rooms. Unwind after your walk at the gourmet restaurant, starring local Pajottenland and Zenne River Valley products.
www.les-eleveurs.be
3. Kestemont Brewery (Schepdaal, Dilbeek)
Born and raised in the Pajottenland, the Kestemont family has called the auspicious former Goossens Brewery site home since 2016. Fast forward five years, and they’d begun brewing their first lambic. A lonely half a century later, and the air in the streets of Pede wafts once again with the heady, earthy undertones of wort cooling down. Brueghel’s nostrils must have been filled with the same scent as he painted Pede’s old mill and chapel nearly 400 years ago, just a few blocks away from the brewery. This inspiring site is a listed monument and was listed as architectural heritage in 2021. Beer and beautiful architecture...what more could you want?
The Wild Yeast Walk – 13.3 km
Does wild yeast swarm? It does here. The air is thick with their heady magic, which is why there’s no shortage of lambic breweries to choose from: Kestemont Brewery, Lindemans Brewery, ’t Guldenhooft Farm Brewery and 4Pajot. Landscapes that look like they sprang from a Bruegelian canvas and Groenenberg and Gaasbeek’s majestic castle estates – get ready for the best of the Pajottenland’s treasures. The Wild Yeast Walk >
Your stay
Soak up B&B St-Hubert’s relaxing, great outdoors vibes. It’s part of a riding school where Frisian horses infuse the ambience with wonder. The old caretaker’s home has been renovated from top to bottom, now featuring five beautiful, contemporary rooms.
www.bbsthubert.be
4. Oud Beersel Brewery (Beersel)
Creative spirit Gert Christiaens reopened the authentic alehouse next to the Oud Beersel Blendery. These days, the wooden barrels mature more than just traditional lambic. Gert’s concoctions include rhubarb and even walnuts. And he uses unconventional, quirky ingredients to add notes of unexpected goodness to the mix. How would you like to try a lambic infused with rose petals, Szechuan pepper or even olive leaf?
The Kesterbeek Walk - 8,1 km
The Kesterbeek guides you through the rolling green hills of Beersel, Dworp, and Alsemberg. Pass through fields and forests to enjoy the sumptuous views of Brussels and the Pajottenland. This walk starts in Beersel, on the Herman Teirlinckplein. The Kesterbeek Walk >
Your stay
How about a tiny house in the countryside? Or maybe a stylish open loft? It’s up to you at Kluts Guesthouses in Alsemberg.
www.kluts.be
5. De Troch Brewery (Wambeek, Ternat)
It’s indisputable. De Troch Brewery is one of the region’s loveliest breweries. Dating back to Pieter De Troch’s purchase of a beer vat in 1795, this handsome square farm has long been a family stronghold. It’s remained virtually unaltered and is easily an archaeological prize find. Around 1984, the brewery caused a minor scandal in the geuze world. Their sin? They’d launched the first exotic beer, e.g. the piquantly controversial lambic infused with banana and mango.
The Pol de Mont Walk - 7,7 km
Writer and poet Pol de Mont (1857-1931) waxed lyrical about the beauty of his home, the Pajottenland. Beginning with his birthplace, you’ll wander through the Kouterbroeken Nature Reserve and past the Klapscheut water mill, following in the poet’s footsteps. The Pol de Mont Walk >
Your stay
Say yes to a charming holiday flat in rural Borchtlombeek, where the winding footpaths always lead to enchanting views.
www.hoekjeaf.be
Wondering what the difference is between a geuze and a lambic? It’s the process. Lambic is brewed, while geuze is blended. When you drink geuze, you drink a blend of young and old lambic fermented a second time after bottling.
Photos: (main image) ©Oud Beersel Brewery; De Troch ©Bert Dekelver