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Explore Belgium: The province of Namur delights with cultural, heritage and water hotspots
The Namur region draws tourists from home and abroad for its picturesque landscape dotted with stone villages and towns. Resplendent heritage sites, meandering rivers and diverse cultural activities are an additional draw as well as its central location in southern Belgium.
Namur
A gateway to the Ardennes, the city of Namur is enjoying a mini renaissance following a series of major urban projects fitting its status as the capital of Wallonia. They include the transformation of the confluence of the former Grognon area at the foot of the citadel and busy city centre.
This serves as a public space for skateboarders, strollers and festivities such as annual street theatre celebration Namur in May and folklore extravaganza Fêtes de Wallonie. Admire the panoramic views from its raised walkway, riverside steps or brasserie tucked away on the water’s edge. Water taxi La Namourette plies the river in the summer season, while river cruises afford VIP views of the charming city from the water.
Take the L’Enjambée cycle and footbridge over the Meuse to Jambes. Awaiting you is artisan ice-cream shop Le Glacetronome – you cannot miss the queues – while the quay leads to the town centre, a port with pleasure boats and La Capitainerie (pictured below).
This seasonal pleasure pontoon hires out kayaks, paddleboards and small boats as well as serving drinks, snacks and hosting evening concerts. Further south, summer ‘beach’ spot The Flow also provides watersports and other activities including a bar and food truck. On the other side of the river, gastro food truck Guinguette Mobile occupies a woodland spot where a former Michelin star chef dishes up tasty bites to diners seated around gingham-dressed communal tables.
Citadel
The 80-hectare ancient citadel dominates the city, a visual reminder of the city’s military past and atmospherically illuminated as dusk falls. It is home to activities for all ages, from sporting pursuits and festivals to theatre and guided tours. The Terra Nova visitor centre occupies the former military barracks, with a café and terrace for refreshments and snacks. From here, you can explore the citadel’s fascinating labyrinth network of underground tunnels with tours available in English.
The esplanade atop a lofty plateau is home to Le Panorama restaurant and terrace and Le Pavillon, an exhibition space dedicated to international digital arts that is housed in the former Belgian pavilion of the Milan World Expo. It sits conveniently adjacent to the new cable car that links the citadel with the city centre. Nearby, is vast kids’ playground ‘Parc des Attractions’, with tree climbing, trampoline, mini train rides and go karts.
Visitors are free to scramble around the multi-terrain fortress themselves. It is a fabulous asset to the city with other highlights including the giant turtle sculpture by Jan Fabre, pastures where sheep roam and impressive military bridges and defensive walls. On the main route ascending the citadel are a perfume atelier Guy Delforge and Le Fief de Namur, a restaurant serving locally-sourced food run by a gin distillery.
City centre
From the train station – now a multimodal public transport hub – it is a short walk to the bustling lower end of the city and pedestrianised quarter. Head down the main artery Rue de Fer with brand shops or the Art Deco street Rue des Carmes, home to the Cameo indie cinema complex. Independent stores, restaurants and bars fill the alleys with La Maison des Desserts an institution for its sweet treats. On the art and history front, the Félicien Rops museum is dedicated to Namur’s famous and influential fin-de-siècle artist and illustrator, renowned for his erotic and satiric works. The Musée des Arts Anciens du Namurois houses local Renaissance and medieval treasures, while Les Bateliers specialises in decorative as well as archaeological collections. Pop into Eglise Saint-Loup in the old quarter: the 17th-century church is a Baroque gem and a more intimate interior compared to the draughty Baroque Saint-Aubain Cathedral. Do not forget to pick up information at the tourist office, which enjoys a new home in the Halle al’Chair (pictured above), a stunning Renaissance building overlooking the Sambre.
Dinant
The province’s second city Dinant is located downstream in the Meuse valley, accessible from Namur by bicycle along water-edge scenic towpaths. One landmark attraction is the 13th-century Gothic Collegiate Notre-Dame church complete with bulbous bell tower and standing dramatically between the river and a hanging precipice of rock. Walk up through the Bois du Casino – or take the cable car – to the historic citadel further above which houses a fascinating museum and marvel at the panorama. The Mosane city is also the birthplace of Adolphe Sax (1814-1894), inventor of the saxophone; its bridge is graced with multicoloured saxophones from different countries and an interpretive centre in the house where he was born has an exhibition space about the fascinating musician.
For water-themed activities, Dinant-Evasion offers descents of the River Lesse by kayak on 9km, 12km or 21km courses. It also runs guided caving initiations, which take participants between narrow passages and vast spaces. Cruises on the Meuse depart from the famous Dinant Croisette and travel through the heart of the Meuse valley.
Highlights in the province
Between the cities of Namur and Dinant lie the beautiful 18th-century gardens of Annevoie (pictured). The 18-hectare park was recently renovated to reveal the full splendour of the English, French and Italian style water courses and elaborate features, including waterfalls and fountains, plus a children’s playground. It also stages cultural activities.
Among the many castles dotting the tree-flanked valley is Domaine de Freÿr, near Hastière. Overlooking one of the most idyllic stretches of the river, the stately home has been restored and transformed into a sustainable estate. Dating from the 14th century, it enjoys fine terraced gardens, water features, a 6km labyrinth, an ancient orangery and an 18th-century summer folly.
The Lesse valley nature reserve Parc de Furfooz near Dinant is a 50-hectare domain offering a 4km walk in varied terrain. Rock faces, caverns, riverbanks, meadows, forest and ancient roman baths reveal how the area has been inhabited since prehistoric times.
Former Cistercian domain Notre-Dame du Vivier Abbey (pictured above) as transformed itself into an eco-friendly culture and leisure destination popular with locals. Located in a wooded village perched above Namur, the renovated 13th century monastery offers gîtes, a popular restaurant and terrace as well as hosting shows and concerts and providing a home to heritage herds and farmyard animals.
Maredsous Abbey in the Molignée valley is not only an active Benedictine community, open to visitors via guided tours (in Fr & Dutch), it is a tourist site that appeals for its celebrated beer and cheese as well as its soaring spires. A new craft brewer has made its home in the ancient abbey walls, offering Holy Beers of course.
The often-overlooked Condroz region is a rural delight with pretty villages, the Provincial Domain of Chevetogne – filled with nature, adventure and family activities and events – plus endless opportunities for walks and cycles. The province also contains myriad 'Most Beautiful Villages of Wallonia' including Crupet, Falaën, Celles and Mozet. A new cycling guide to all the villages features 12 suggested routes.
Explore Belgium: Hainaut is ideal for culture, nature, heritage and folklore | The Bulletin
Photos: (main image) visit.Namur; 3XN images © Philippe Piraux; citadel, visit.Namur; courtesy Dinant; courtesy Annevoie gardens; citadel; courtesy Vivier Abbey; Halle al’Chair visit.namur
