Medieval shootout: Bruges vs Ghent

Mirror, mirror on the wall, which Belgian medieval city is fairest of them all? Why Ghent, of course, says Flanders Today editor and American expat Lisa Bradshaw who’s been a fervent champion of all things Ghent since moving to the city seven years ago. While in the blue corner, College of Europe alumni Nicholas Hirst tells us to believe the hype: Bruges is best. But who’s right? Let the battle commence…

Bruges

The Manhattan of the Middle Ages, the cradle of modern capitalism; as far as medieval cities go anywhere in the world, Bruges is the real McCoy, and not just compared with the local upstarts who have profiteered from its demise. Nor is Bruges’ glory lost to the past; you need only take leave of the madding crowd of tourists to discover the unrivalled architecture and silent waterways in the old town, as well as the charismatic bars and great restaurants serving its 100,000-odd inhabitants in the new.

Bruges is ideally approached from the north-east, where four windmills are perched on high ground.  They are worth visiting for their glorious structures alone (at least one is open to the public), but their position also affords a perfect introduction to the city and its skyline, with the towers of the Belfry and cathedral in the background and a view into the grounds of the medieval crossbowmen’s guilds in the foreground.  From the windmills, continue along the wooded paths that ring the old city to visit the medieval city gates.  Otherwise, the view from the windmills is nicely complimented by a dash up the Belfry’s 366 steps.

It goes without saying that Bruges’ amazing museums, with their bountiful collection of historic art and excellent curators, far surpass those to be found in Ghent.  In particular, the Groeninge Museum (with it’s rich collection of Flemish Primitives and Renaissance works) and the Basilica of the Holy Blood are not to be missed, no matter how long the queues.  However, there’s also plenty to keep those already familiar with Bruges both busy and surprised.  Top marks in that respect go to the  Jerusalem Church (Jeruzalemkerk).  Not only is this one of Bruges’ oldest churches, built in 1427 by the powerful Adorno family who were merchants from Genova, but it is also the city’s most architecturally eccentric. Its Byzantine structure, with an octagonal wooden tower crowned with a great orb, was inspired by a family pilgrimage to Jerusalem and presents a strange sight in this city of gables and spires.  The macabre interior includes a representation of the Holy Sepulchre and a relic of the Holy Cross.

Still in the north-east, but hidden behind walls and hedges, Bruges’ two surviving medieval crossbowmen guilds are happy to show visitors round.   Whereas the Schuttersgilde Sint-Sebastiaan inhabits a splendid 16th century guild house and counts King Charles II of Britain amongst its members, the Schuttersgilde Sint-Joris’ trophy and portrait rooms are impressive. 

A different side of Bruges is on show at The Lucifernum, a large town house on Twijnstraat formerly used as a Masonic lodge. Willy Retsin, its current owner and descendant to the house’s freemasons, has opened it as a museum with Masonic paintings, text and décor on view. In addition to the museum’s curious history, the house’s décor, encompassing sacrilegious paintings and an improvised graveyard, is a sight in itself. And visitors can also enjoy paella, cooked by Willy’s lovely Peruvian wife, and cocktails that err on the strong side. But be warned: opening hours can be irregular.

Culture vultures are advised to wonder the city’s backstreets for cameos from Rodenbach’s Bruges-la-Morte, the film In Bruges or Alan Hollinghurst’s evocative novel The Folding Star.  When satiated, swing by the former house of the poet Guido Gezelle, now a museum dedicated to him as a founding father of Flemish literature.  To get back to the here-and-now, consider an evening at the city’s modern Concertgebouw, which boasts Belgium’s largest stage, affords great views over the city and has a deserved reputation for its high-brow programming. 

When it comes to gastronomy, Bruges’ twelve Michelin stars beat Ghent’s measly four hands down. But fine dining isn’t limited to the city’s world-famous restaurants such as De Karmeliet or Danny Horseele – there is plenty of great food to be found across the city, even if the prices are a little higher than in Brussels. 
Top of the affordable list is the pretty Kok-au-vin, where the coquelet au vin is so tender it can eaten without a knife.  If you want to stop off for a quick lunch, De Bretoen combines hearty savoury crepes with unsentimental service. In the evening, Vino Vino does surprisingly authentic tapas in a tasteful and private ambience.
Even if Bruges’ medieval fabric is best appreciated at night down dark cobbled lanes or in eerie reflections off the still, sombre canals, many find it hard to resist trawling Bruges’ colourful nightspots, fired on by the great local beer, the Brugse Zot.  The Bar des Amis is welcoming and the Cellar has dancing until 6am.  However, few barmen can have succeeded in generating more loyal customers than the former rocker who owns On the Rocks where time feels like it has stopped – although in the 1970s, rather than the Middle Ages.

Getting there

Reaching Bruges takes about an hour from Brussels, whether by car or by train.  Trains leave every 30 minutes from Brussels Gare du Midi and tickets are half-price at weekends (€13.80 return).  The station lies just outside the old town and is probably also the best place to park.

Getting around

Bruges is best explored by foot or on bike, just stay clear of the main tourist arteries in the south-east.  Bikes can be rented all over town, including the Fietspunt at the train station. Boat trips can be commandeered from several points along the canals.  For guided tours, try S-wan who offer a range of creative tours with themes such as death, sickness and love.  After exhausting the options above, why not opt for the hot air balloon trip over the city organised by Bruges Ballooning?

Where to stay

If you want to do the whole medieval fairytale thing the five star Kempinski Duke’s Palace is the perfect place to stay. Central location, beautiful décor and top-class service. 

Kempinski Hotel Dukes’ Palace, Prinsehof 8, 8000 Bruges, tel 050.44.78.88, www.kempinski.com/en/bruges

Ghent

In 1896, English novelist Arnold Bennett complained: “The difference between Bruges and other cities is that in the latter, you look about for the picturesque, while in Bruges, assailed on every side by the picturesque, you look curiously for the unpicturesque, and don’t find it easily.”
I do not know if Bennett ever visited Ghent, but oh, how I hope so.

Having been shunned through the centuries by millions of tourists who flock to cute, charming, mediaeval (etc, etc) Bruges, Ghent is now stubbornly priding itself on being “real”. In its tourist office inside the domineering belfry on Belfortstraat, you will find a brochure of sites with the words “Ghent: Dazzlingly Authentic” blazoned across the cover. A popular new tour guide business in the city calls itself Ghent Authentic.

In 2008, National Geographic Traveler published a list of the best “historic places” in the world to visit. It was, the magazine said, a measurement of “integrity of place”, an “assessment of authenticity and stewardship”. Of the 109 monuments, districts, cities and towns that made the list, only one was in Belgium. The “historic centre of Ghent” came in at number 3.

Perhaps spurred by this revelation, Lonely Planet travel guides put Ghent at number seven on its list of the world’s Top Ten Cities for 2011. “Ghent might just be the best European city you’ve never thought of visiting,”  it said.

But you don’t have to believe all of us. If you haven’t popped over to Ghent lately – just 30 minutes by train from Brussels (and Bruges), find out for yourself.

A good place to start your tour is that very same belfry – one of Belgium’s finest. A carillon at the top plays frequently, and you can climb the many, many stairs for astonishing views. Floors on the way up contain artefacts of the old city (and provide respite from the climb).

Ghent is known as the city of the three towers – the belfry is one of them, two churches provide the others. Conveniently, they are all next to each other: Sint-Niklaas is Ghent’s oldest church (13th century), and Sint-Baaf’s is its largest. A visit to Sint-Baaf’s is a must, if only to see “The Adoration of the Mystic Lamb”, one of the world’s first – and best – oil paintings, created in the 15th century by Flemish Primitive brothers Hubert and Jan van Eyck. The altarpiece, made up of 24 panels representing religious ideology, was hidden during the protestant revolt, stolen by the French, sold to the Prussians, saved from fire and confiscated by the Germans. One panel that was stolen in the 1930s, has never been recovered and remains Belgium’s most enduring art theft mysteries.

Other must-sees in the centre are Huis van Alijn, a folk history museum set in beautifully restored almshouses where visitors can discover stories, curiosities and objects from 20th century life. The Patershol district, Ghent’s only remaining medieval quarter, is a must-see with its windy streets and enough bars, cafés and restaurants to keep you fed and watered for the duration of your stay; it is also home to the excellent Caermersklooster cultural centre. The city centre is also home to the Graslei/Korenlei paths, which flank the central canal and are lined with plenty of places to stop for a drink and admire the view. And if you want to experience Ghent’s waterways, there are five companies offering boat trips around the city; but as some are closed in the winter, it’s best to check the Visit Gent website beforehand.

From the Graslei, it’s a hop and a skip to Jan Breydelstraat, a most excellent shopping street, with cute boutiques sporting jewellery, lingerie or funky home furnishings. Don’t miss the Fallen Angels retro shops run by a mother and daughter – one carries antiques from before the Second World War, the other collectibles from after.

All of this is literally within a 10-minute walk of the other. If you would like to wander further afield, the hottest spot is the museum quarter, just outside the ring on the edges of Citadel Park. Ghent’s modern art museum, SMAK, is just across the street from the Fine Arts Museum, and they are both just down the street from the famous Bijloke complex, home to both the well-known concert hall and the nearly-new city museum, STAM.

After all that walking, you’ll need to eat. Ghent just happens to be the capital of vegetarian Belgium and the first city in the world to devote a day to vegetarian eating (Thursday), so act like a local and try one of the many veggie restaurants. In the centre, De Warempel on Zandberg and De Panda on Oudberg (at the back of the organic food store), are your best bets. For meatier options, you can’t go wrong at the romantic Keizershof in the Vrijdagmarkt square. For desserts, go nowhere else except Julie’s House, the best in the city – and served in generous portions. Its claim to fame is cupcakes, but its pie menu, which changes regularly, is equally good, and you’ll find me ordering the white chocolate pie with speculoos powder sprinkled atop every time.

Once evening falls, and your ready for libations, Pink Flamingos is a good place to start. A small bar chock full of collectibles (and people), the décor changes every few months. Fortunately, the chandelier made of Barbies (look up when you enter) is always in place. For the centre’s best beer menu head to Dulle Griet back on Vrijdagmarkt. Sit in the back room if you want to pretend you’re on a terrace.

Getting there

By car, simply take the Gent Centrum exit from the E40 or the E17. Free parking is tough to find, but signs point the way to various car parks. By public transport, take the train to either Gent-Sint-Pieters or Gent-Dampoort. At Sint-Pieters, take tram number 1 to the Korenmarkt stop in the heart of the city centre. From Gent-Dampoort, walk due west down Dampoortstraat to reach the centre

Getting around

Almost everyone in Ghent cycles, but the city centre is compact enough to navigate by foot. To get to the museum district, take tram 1 from the centre to the Kortrijksepoortstraat stop. Go straight forward to the ring road and turn right to get to STAM or left to get to SMAK and the Fine Arts Museum.

Where to stay

Stay at De Brooderie, which has just three beautiful, simple rooms above a good café located on one of Ghent’s best streets. Or for something a little different, try The Boatel, which as the name suggests, offers guests a chance to sleep on a moored boat close to the city centre.

De Brooderie,  8 Jan Breydelstraat, Ghent, tel 092.25.06.23, www.brooderie.be

The Boatel, 44 Voorhoutkaai, Ghent, tel 092.67.10.30, www.theboatel.com