Summer trips outside Brussels part 4/4: Ypres

For many, Ypres is one of the most famous places in Belgium. For four years from 1914 to 1918, it was the anvil battered by the hammers of Germany, France and the British Imperial forces.

Hundreds of thousands of men died during four major battles during this period, which forever changed history. Winston Churchill called it the Golgotha of the British Army, such was the hold Ypres had on the British psyche. He even pushed for the town and its surrounding villages to be bought by Britain and kept as a permanent memorial.

But the burghers of Ypres had other ideas and the town was rebuilt as it was in 1914 with the famous Cloth Hall only finally completed in 1965. Despite the draw of its historical background, Ypres is much more than a living memorial: it’s a worthwhile place to visit, not only for Great War buffs.

Explore

War tourism accounts for almost 80% of the local economy. The town is packed with tourists from all over the world, all year round. The main focus is the Menin Gate, on which are inscribed the names of the missing. Under its solemn arches every evening at 20.00, the Last Post is sounded with crowds of tourists in attendance.

The great walls of this fortified city are now used as walking and jogging paths, with battlefield cemeteries dotting their route. The Cloth Hall, witness to the city’s once-flourishing international linen trade, dominates the main square and is now home to the award-winning In Flanders Fields museum.

Another ancient building that was reduced to shelled ruins is the nearby Saint Martin’s Cathedral, originating from the 13th century. In the surrounding countryside, hundreds of military cemeteries bear witness to the death and destruction wrought during the Great War, topped off by the brooding Tyne Cot cemetery in which lie 12,000 Commonwealth graves. Lying on the infamous Passchendaele Ridge, the cemetery looks down on Ypres. All the main battlefield sites and memorials are easily accessed by car; alternatively, rent a bike and explore the many cycle paths.

Eat

Eating out in Ypres is a treat and it’s always a pleasure to sit outside on a warm evening and enjoy the market square. There’s a fine selection of cafes and restaurants in the centre, from Den Anker, which has existed, war damage apart, since the 13th century, to Het Moment, Les Halles and Vivaldi. It’s a young and vibrant place and the nightlife gets going in the Vismarkt, packed with bars for those who wish to enjoy the night a little longer.

Stay

Ypres has an extensive range of fine hotels, from the four-star Ariane to the marvellously sited Regina. The Ariane’s fine restaurant is also arguably one of the best in town.

www.toerismeieper.be

This article first appeared in The Bulletin Best of Belgium 2016