When the mighty Girls Against Boys called it a day, a golden opportunity arose for any punk/grunge band with two bass players to fill the gap.

Welsh outfit Exit International did far better than that. They now count GvsB’s Eli Janney among their most fervent admirers. This breathtaking debut album will gain them many, many more, so infectious is the twin-bass racket cooked up by Fudge Wilson and Scott Lee Andrews. Drummer AdamThomas more than keeps up with the onslaught, as the suitably scary Lights Out will testify.

(Undergroove Records)

Given that Chao Phraya covers so many bases, it goes without saying that it does some things better than others. The service is polite and efficient but could do with a touch of warmth. The décor has an Ikea-does-Thai feel to it which is inoffensive but hardly reminiscent of the Buddha Bar style opulence to which it appears to claim affinity to. And the food? Generally it’s solid Thai fare with occasional flashes of excellence. The beef penaeng would have been perfect if only the meat provided a little less work for the jaw.

The signs were bad, for so many reasons. Firstly, there was my friend Jack’s claim that he knew “this great little Italian”. I’ve lost count of how many times I’ve heard this announcement, but it’s often enough to twig that “great little” usually means “cheap(ish), for the very good reason that the food is – at best – average”. Secondly, there was the fact that the restaurant in question was in the stretch of Rue Haute halfway between the flea market and the bottom of the Sablon; an area where the onus is more on fashion statements than on culinary excellence.