Greek cuisine tends to get lost in translation. Friends and family come back from Greece waxing lyrical about light-as-a-feather dishes of grilled fish and cooling salads. In Western Europe, meanwhile, the birthplace of democracy is known, culinarily speaking, for stodge: think robust oven-baked dishes, or grilled meat served with pasta and potatoes. Worse, more often than not, the fare on offer plays second bouzouki to the tasteless decor (Discobolus, trident, Doric columns) and obligatory entertainment.