Travel to Zeeland: Go Dutch with a trip to the nearby maritime haven

For an alternative seaside experience to Belgium’s busy coastline, head a little north to Zeeland where quiet beaches, rural countryside and water sports reign.

It’s a beautiful region dotted with islands and peninsulas that were once separated by the sea. Additional attractions to the southern Netherlands holiday spot include a gentle pace of life, fresh seafood and a sunny microclimate.

History and geography

After catastrophic flooding in 1953, urgent measures were taken to ensure that such a devastating event would never happen again. Today, the region is connected by an intricate system of dams, dykes and barriers known as the Delta Works. This ingenious project not only reduced the risk of floods and improved Zeeland’s infrastructure, it also created the perfect conditions for water recreation.

Zeeland’s history will always be linked with water. From its very beginnings roughly 150,000 years ago, the province has been engaged in a bittersweet relationship with the North Sea. Struggling to keep it out at one moment, basking in the glory of its glistening coastline and pristine beaches the next.

Places to visit

The capital of Zeeland province is Middelburg (pictured above) a fortified city which not only boasts a rich history dating back to the ninth century, but offers a good selection of shops and galleries and impressive architecture. Two landmark buildings are the 12th-century abbey and the Gothic-style town hall, testimony to the city’s Flemish influence. The late Gothic town hall dominates a large part of the market square and has a stunning interior with fine tapestries from Bruges, beautiful artwork and antique furniture. Another noteworthy building is the Abdij van Middelburg, an abbey founded by Flemish monks in the 12th century.

Among other ‘must-see’ cities and villages, Renesse is a colourful seaside resort with plenty of accommodation options, whether it be a campsite catering to families with small children or a cosy bed and breakfast. Facing the Sint-Jacobuskerk on the town square are a host of restaurants, shops and cafes, plus a weekly market every Wednesday from May until September.

More upmarket are Haamstede and Veere. Noordstraat, a pretty, tree-lined street in Haamstede, is a good spot to stop for lunch, while Veere has a marina dotted with colourful, envy-inducing yachts.

Wemeldinge is a pretty traditional village with an outstanding location for fans of watersports. A sheltered marina is filled with yachts and motorboats and also attracts paddleboarders and youngsters keen for a dip. Alternatively, there’s a sandy beach that is a safe swimming spot and as the sun sets over the watery panorama, beachcombers can admire the view while enjoying an alfresco aperitif.

Hotel and brasserie Smits is a beacon for travellers; its shady terrace an ideal spot to sample some local fish and seafood. It also rents out bicycles, which is one of the best ways to explore the surrounding dunes and dykes.

Further along the coast is Goes, a town that was founded in the 10th century but expanded in the 1970s and 80s with the addition of new districts. They boast fine private villas located on inner waterways. Reflecting the resort’s upmarket appeal, there is excellent shopping in a pedestrianised quarter. For a suitably swanky overnight stay, Hotel Waterstate offers comfortable rooms, wellness facilities and an excellent waterside location.

Water sports

Zeeland’s unique combination of sea and shallow inland waters stretching out over 650km of coastline means there’s more than enough space to practise water sports. The Brouwersdam, part of the Delta Works, is a surfer’s paradise. While experienced surfers prefer the higher waves found outside the dyke, novices usually opt for the gentle waters of the Grevelingenmeer.

Scharendijke, a port village not far from the Brouwersdam, offers scuba divers the chance to discover marine life and even three recreational shipwrecks sunk at various depths in 2011. While most divers are experienced and independent, Duikcentrum Scharendijke offers courses, guided dives and equipment rental. All divers need to respect the tides to avoid local currents even though low tides require an often long and arduous entry into the sea while laden with heavy equipment.

Other activities

For those who are keen on keeping their feet dry, sand dunes are ideal for long walks, wide stretches of farmland selling everything from regional fruit to cheeses, and quaint towns where terraces invitingly tempt you to sit down for a local beer or a cup of coffee and a sweet, syrupy Zeeuwse bolus (cinnamon bun, a regional speciality). Some of Europe’s finest seafood awaits: tasty mussels and oysters, Oosterschelde lobster and Stellendam shrimp can be found in the menus of gourmet dining establishments. No other Dutch province boasts as many Michelin-starred restaurants. An annual culinary highlight is Yerseke at Sea on 17 August, which celebrates the region’s excellent mussels and oysters with tastings, a local market, shanty choirs and an opportunity to admire various seacraft.

Photos: main image ©Zeeland Visit; coastline ©Zeeland Visit; Middelburg ©Zeeland Visit; Wemeldinge ©Anne Bruyère; sunset ©Anne Bruyère; Goes ©Anne Bruyère; surfers ©Zeeland Visit; diver ©Anne Bruyère; oysters ©Zeeland Visit