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Explore Belgium: Hainaut is ideal for culture, nature, heritage and folklore
Belgium is so much more than Brussels and Bruges. Although it is one of the country’s lesser-known provinces, Hainaut boasts a ‘top four’ of towns, countless castles, fascinating industrial heritage, endless festivities and folklore, and breathtaking nature sites.
Hainaut’s capital got a real reboot in 2015 following its ‘Capital of Culture’ crown in 2015 as well as a new sci-fi style Santiago Calatrava station – which is still not finished almost 10 years later...
It boasts myriad museums, including the Mons Memorial Museum and Arthothèque, while the BAM fine arts museum shows top quality exhibitions with an international flavour. It is now part of the Culture, Art & Patrimoine complex that also includes the new Collections House heritage museum (pictured). The art museum’s most recent show dedicated to Rodin attracted more than 70,000 visitors. For the culture capital festivities, it focused on Van Gogh as the Dutch master once lived in the nearby villages of Cuesmes and Colfontaine – both abodes are open to the public. The beautifully renovated Mundaneum – its Art Deco building houses archive history – is a fascinating pre-Internet world, while the Musée du Doudou recounts the story of Mons’ famous Ducasse and George and the Dragon fight; the dragon is an important Mons’ symbol.
The historic city further shines for its Sainte-Waudru church, complete with Doudou procession chariot, UNESCO-recognised belfry on a hill offering beautiful views and the lively Grand Place. Do not forget to rub the head of the iron monkey at the Town Hall with your left hand for luck. Other must-sees include Art Nouveau gem the Maison Losseau; its interior offers a glimpse of life in the late 19h century.
For a green pause, wander down charming old town streets to the romantic sculpture-filled Waux-Hall park. Its retro pink eclectic pavilion is to be transformed into a cultural centre. Or take the self-guided ‘Art inhabits the town’ street art walk, introducing you to new parts of this charming city. Finally, check out the ecofriendly paradise atop a former military boulangerie that’s the Hanging Gardens of Mons – complete with hen run, herb gardens and inventive adventure playground.
Belgium’s oldest city after Tongeren and Arlon, is filled with medieval houses and streets with a real French feel – unsurprising as it is so close to the border. Everything is in walking distance, from the imposing 19th century station and Art Nouveau quarter to the centre, which is reached by crossing the Scheldt on one of the beautiful bridges. The star attractions are the Notre-Dame cathedral, 70-metre high belfry, historic Grand Place with imposing Cloth Hall and atmospheric ‘Spanish Houses’.
For culture, do not miss the Victor Horta designed Fine Arts Museum. The planned modern extension will include a café and visitor centre to rival Liège’s La Boverie. Tournai also features a charming ‘olde worlde’ folklore museum and impressive tapestry museum – honouring the town’s textile heritage.
Nature and sport lovers can take their pick from water wonderland Aqua Tournai or tree climbing paradise Ecopark Adventures, while beer heads can take the 75km beer route of some 100 craft brewers in the Picardy Wallonia region.
"Charleroi stinks…" was the Rough Guide’s unkind introduction to this proud city of friendly ‘Carolos’ boasting architectural gems from Art Nouveau to Brutalist. Minutes from the station stand monumental Constantin Meunier statues the Miner and the Metallurgist, reflecting its industrial heritage. The Sambre river area is also home to the Quai10 cinema and gaming complex and the nearby Rive Gauche centre is shopaholic heaven.
A city in two halves, newly-named downtown Place Verte is its commercial heart. A short walk uphill to the ‘other’ Grand Place reveals the superb Art Deco town hall, gleaming gold ceilinged ‘Basilica’ Saint-Christophe and Palais des Beaux Arts (pictured). A little further, opposite stunning Soviet-inspired architecture stands the BPS22 contemporary art mecca in a gargantuan iron and glass industrial hall.
Charleroi also possesses an impressive art collection in its beautiful new Beaux Arts museum near the iconic blue 75m-high Police Tower. Just five kilometres away lies world-class 6,000m² Musée de la Photographie – its 100,000 works housed in a former monastery at Mont-sur-Marchienne.
For a day out with a difference, climb a ‘terril’ (slagheap) on your own or with a guide; ride the street art-abundant architecturally fascinating raised metro/tramway, or explore the ‘urbex’ and disused warehouses on the canal.
Sadly overlooked, Hainaut’s ‘city of wolves/loup’ boasts three top-class museums: the Centre de la Gravure et de l’Imprimerie; Keramis ceramics centre (pictured) in the former Boch factory and the MiLL – which showcases Romanian sculptor Idel Ianchelivici (1909-1994). His fascinating work includes Liege’s The Diver. For something suitably surreal, visit the Centre Daily-Bul founded in 1957 by Pol Bury and André Balthazar.
Other musts include family favourite (much cheaper than Aqualibi) le Point d’Eau, the charming town park Warocqué and fascinating 1950s architecture on Place Communale, including the town hall and theatre.
Best of all, 10 minutes’ walk from the station, stroll along the scenic canal to one of the region’s famous barge lifts, as well as the world famous Strépy-Thieu boat lift and museum some seven kilometres away.
On your way, have a drink at popular Cantine des Italiens, from where boat hire is possible, and visit its exhibition on the lives of Italian migrants who came to work in the mines in the 1950s. The museum is set in their original homes.
Nearby sites illustrating ‘black country’ industrial history include the Bois du Cazier, commemorating the 1956 Marcinelles mining tragedy, that also features industrial and glass museums; Bois-du-Luc mining museum and village and Spiennes mining museum, dedicated to its neolithic flints.
Elsewhere in the province
Hainaut is veritable carnival land – at least 10 surround La Louvière alone. Most well-known is Binche’s annual festivities. Joyous Gilles coming out to play are a highlight on the main Sunday procession. Binche is also a peaceful medieval town offering a 2km walk around its ancient ramparts, an impressive mask museum and a lively Grand Place.
More folklore awaits in Ath – the city of Giants. Its newly-renovated House of Giants’ video describes the town’s end-August ‘Ducasse’ festivities. Ath is also famous for its Gallo-Roman museum and delightful ‘Art and Vegetal’ self-guided trail of fascinating sculptures. If you are lucky, the Musée National de Jeux de Paume might even be open, detailing Belgium’s ancient and still popular ‘balle pelote’ game, in which two teams of five players hit a small 'pelota' ball back and forth with a gloved hand.
Hainaut crafts are displayed in style at Marcinelle’s glass museum, Braine-le-Comte’s incredible Chapelle de Verre, Châtelet’s pottery centre, Soignies’ blue stone centre and Rance’s marble museum.
Railway heritage abounds at Saint-Ghislain’s railway museum and at the delightful Lobbes-Thuin steam train line where old trams also feature. Beer lovers are well catered to in the province, with Dubuisson, Saint-Feuillien, Brunehaut and Dupont just a few of its renowned brasseries. The region also possesses award-winning vineyards, producing sparkling wines that vie in quality with their French counterparts. Notable are Domaine des Agaises, better known under the name Ruffus, and Domaine du Chant d’Eole, which cultivates the chalky soil around Mons.
Castles also enchant – at Seneffe, which hosts impressive art exhibitions; Beloeil, a Belgian Versailles; Antoing and Ecaussines, whose Château de la Follie hosts its own costumed ‘Venice carnival’.
Former colliery Grand-Hornu, near Mons, was once one of the finest 19th-century miners’ villages. Now the Unesco site with its neoclassic architecture, harbours two renowned contemporary art and design museums, MACS and CID.
For nature, Hainaut is home to Belgium’s largest lakes, Lacs de l’Eau d’Heure. They offer myriad water sports and even a Red Crocodile ride. Or explore Enghien Park’s grounds, chateau, lakes and follies, which date from the 15th century. For something smaller, Braine-le-Comte’s Etangs Martel and Soignies’ Parc Pater are tranquility incarnate.
Spread over 80 hectares with a vast lake at its centre, the award-winning Pairi Daiza animal park is contained within the ancient walls that once encircled the former Cistercian Cambron Abbey. More than 7,500 animals are housed in distinct worlds, which transport visitors on a global journey via water features, botanical gardens and sumptuous architecture.
Three other highlights are fortified Thuin’s breathtaking terraced gardens, Lessine’s medieval hospital-convent-museum Notre-Dame de la Rose and the Roger Bastin-designed 1970s brutalist Mariemont decorative art museum. Filled with worldclass treasures, it is set in beautiful rolling parkland and woods and peppered with the former chateau’s relics as well as artworks.
Last but not least, Mouscron’s Centre Marcel Marlier takes you back to the 1950s with Belgian children’s classic Martine. Or explore scenic, slow food-famous Silly, if only for the name.
Photos: (main image) Visit Mons, Collegiale Sainte Waudru; Collections House heritage museum; Doudou Mons; Tournai WBT Alessandra Petrosino; PBA Charleroi; Keramis; Strepy boat lift; Giants procession Ath; Crocodile Rouge Lacs de l'Eeau d'Heure; Mariemont Museum
