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Explore Belgium: Walloon Brabant province is perfect for culture, heritage and even thrill seekers

09:09 09/08/2024
Our travel series on Belgian provinces features insider tips for day trips or longer stays.

From Villers Abbey to the historic site of Waterloo, Brabant Wallon attracts visitors far and wide and makes a perfect getaway from Brussels. A mix of architectural excellence and stunning countryside, it features old and very new towns, cultural and sporting hotspots and amazing castles and abbeys.

Louvain-la-Neuve

Built from scratch in the 1970s, following the linguistic quarrels that split the Catholic University of Leuven in two, Louvain-la-Neuve – a pioneering new and also very green town - is unlike any other city in Belgium. This is a perfect reason to explore the attractions of the university city – and – a plus for families – everything is in easy walking distance and the centre is a car-free zone. From the train station and Place de l’Université, it is only five minutes’ walk to the Grand Place.

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On the cultural front, this architecturally fascinating city that mixes concrete Brutalist blocks with stunning street art, proudly hosts the bright white Hergé Museum (pictured above), honouring the creator of Belgian comic-strip hero Tintin. Do not miss the recently renovated Musée L (pictured below), which has a fantastic, little-known selection of modern art. The student-filled town also boasts a huge Odeon multiplex and brand new sports complex and pool.

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Somewhat surprising in this modern mecca, la Ferme du Biéreau is a throwback to the city’s countryside roots as Louvain-la-Neuve was built on fields. The last farm to leave the city in 1979, this is now a buzzing concert venue that hosts children’s music festival Kidzik at the end of August.

Shopaholics will love the Esplanade. With endless big brands and smaller boutiques, this enormous shopping centre is open Monday to Saturday until 20.00. Shops and eateries also line the streets from the station to the main square. If you are hungry, the town’s endless bars and brasseries pay homage to the student community. A highlight is aptly-named Le Grand Place, its terrace overlooking the square.

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Icing on the cake, Louvain-la-Neuve seems resolutely urban, but green space is everywhere. Best of all is the beautiful, man-made lake just after the Grand Place, teeming with plant and bird/duck life. At one end is a working farm that provides workshops for children in school holidays. From here, paths take you by foot or bike to the stunning Bois des Rêves domain (pictured above) in adjacent Ottignies, complete with 17km of guided walkways, a huge playground, spray park (replacing the former open air pool), fishing pond and mountain bike trail.

Finally, for something radical and eco-friendly, explore La Baraque – the one-time hippy quarter of artists’ studios and caravans. People have built cabins and alternative housing here since the city was created.

Nivelles

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With its meandering ‘land-that-time-forgot’ medieval streets behind the wonderful Grand Place and its bustling terraces, Nivelles is a world away from modern Louvain-la-Neuve. This charming, provincial town boasts one of the world’s biggest Roman churches, Collégiale Sainte-Gertrude and cloisters, an old-style town museum and beautiful Parc de la Dodaine with its many sculptures, flower gardens and lake. This peaceful place, perfect for an afternoon jaunt from Brussels, hosts a vibrant Carnival and enjoys a Manneken Pis collection in its tourist office. Do not leave without trying its culinary speciality. The Tarte al Djote, with or without chard, dates from the middle ages.

Waterloo

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Not to be confused with the London station or Abba song, Waterloo’s bustling high street is surprisingly British. The town with no fewer than 700 shops is a popular home for anglophone expats. It boasts a swimming pool which opens its roof in summer, a retro cinema and a delightful park. But the crowds descend for all things associated with that famous 1815 battle. Fascinating Wellington Museum is opposite the imposing 17th century Eglise Saint-Joseph and tourist office. The famous Lion though, perched on its mound, surrounded by the Waterloo museum experience with its 3D film and panorama (the wax museum is no more), is located in nearby Braine-l’Alleud.

Wavre

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Most people know Wavre for Walibi (pictured above) Belgium’s oldest and biggest attraction park featuring daredevil rides with names – like Dalton Terror and Buzzsaw – to match and and Aqualibi, its watery cousin, that also features daring rides. Aventure Parc is an impressive tree climbing paradise a short walk away. Wavre itself, the region’s capital and birthplace of ‘famous Belgian’ poet Maurice Carême (1899-1978), is an attractive town with plentiful shops, eateries and history. Stroll through its pedestrianised streets to the Dyle river, visit its impressive town hall and Gothic Eglise Saint-Jean-Baptiste and find the Maca – the ‘naughty boy’ sculpture on the Perron. Legend has it that stroking the bottom of this town symbol brings good luck.

Highlights in the province

Looking for a more peaceful option to Aqualibi? Renipont beach near bucolic Rixensart is a popular summer bathing spot. The Solvay domain featuring picture-book-perfect Château de la Hulpe high on a hill is ideal for a Sunday or any-day walk, run or cycle. Its stunning grounds and lakes also house the Foundation Folon museum. Jean-Michel Folon (1934-2005)’s dreamy drawings, publicity posters and surrealist style are being celebrated in several exhibitions this year. The luxury Dulce La Hulpe hotel, restaurant and spa also draws many Brusselers in search of a pampering retreat.

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Popular for school trips and hosting concerts, shows and activities all-year-round, Villers Abbey, dating from 1146, is an open air architectural masterpiece. The hauntingly beautiful location classified as “exceptional Walloon heritage” features a unique walk through six special gardens as well as information on all you ever wanted to know about how monks used to live. Complete your visit with a drink or meal at charmingly traditional Bistro de l’Abbaye.

Lesser known Château d’Hélécine makes a perfect family day out with its beautiful grounds, 5,000m² playground with bouncy castles and mini-golf, fishing ponds and animals. The 18th century neoclassical castle houses grand reception rooms and a fascinating archaeological museum.

For something completely different…

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Genval is more than a pleasant pit stop on the Brussels-Ottignies train line. Its gorgeous lake once featuring the delightful Museum of Water and Fountains (now at Bois des Rêves) is overlooked by the five-star Martin’s Château du Lac hotel and bustling brasseries. Best of all, minutes from the train station, is the fascinating Tir a l’Arc (bow and arrow) museum (pictured above). Housed in a 1928-built tower, it is open Thursday evenings on reservation. Where else but in Belgium would shooting an arrow up a tower be a sport?

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Photos: (main image) ©Memorial Waterloo; ©Hergé Musuem; Musée L ©UCL; coutesy Bois des Rêves; Nivelles WBT-JP-Remy; ©Memorial Waterloo; courtesy Walibi; courtesy Tir à l'Arc museum

 

 

Written by Liz Newmark