Bowery

Fashion retailer Smets’ commercial empire encompasses 21 shops in its native Luxembourg, which makes its sole holding in Belgium seem a bit of an outpost. But, like the company’s flagship store across the border, Smets Brussels is twinned with a gourmet in-house restaurant. For those unfamiliar with the Smets urban aesthetic, the name alone – Bowery, after a neighbourhood in lower Manhattan – speaks volumes.

Thankfully, the dining room is distinct from the showroom. One does find some industrial elements imported from the sales floor – exposed concrete, lots of open space – but the Japanese-inspired decor gives Bowery its own gentrified atmosphere.

The menu, authored by chef Benjamin Laborie, offers a solid selection of surf and turf for the urban carnivore but precious little for the urban vegetarian. In keeping with the theme, prices are very SoHo. As if to compensate, the server offers plenty of pleasant surprises, bite-sized experiments from Laborie’s laboratory, free of charge. The chef may be fine-tuning the formulae for the main dishes as well. A robust steak au jus is prepared precisely to order and served with Brussels sprouts and potato pancake. The roast cod is smaller but far bolder, with a sweet-and-sour sauce, carrot purée and caramelised almonds. The difference in portion size between the two is staggering. It’s true that the cow is a rather larger beast than the fish, but human genius has reconciled greater disparities. The important thing, at any rate, is that neither plate is lacking.

If Laborie errs, he errs on the side of caution. And he doesn’t err at all when it comes to his chocolate mousse dessert. If only perfection could be more affordable... a starter, two mains and dessert will exceed €100 before one even begins to consider the extensive wine list.

650 Chaussée de Louvain, tel 02.325.12.90, www.smets.lu