Explore Belgium: Antwerp province is a dizzy mix of the resolutely modern and quintessentially medieval

Belgium’s second city boasts top class museums, striking architecture and must-see green spaces and zoos. But after visiting this powerhouse of culture, commerce and  fashion, do not miss the province’s other draws, including lesser-known Mechelen, the hidden gem of Lier with its quirky astronomical clock and a wealth of beautiful nature spots.

Antwerp

It is worth visiting the port city for its incredible multi-level ‘railway cathedral’ alone. Antwerp Central station (pictured, main image), inaugurated in 1907, and regularly making ‘top 10 most beautiful’ station lists, is a monumental eclectic masterpiece with a stunning marble ceilinged interior. Just outside lies another must-see, its beautiful zoo – one of the largest (with some 6,000 specimens) and oldest (opening 1843) in the world. Two other star attractions – Plopsa Station Antwerp and chocoholic heaven Chocolate Nation are minutes away.

These sights alone would fill a day trip a more, but most people head down the shoppers’ paradise that is the pedestrianised Meir. Many of the big name brands are housed in stunning Baroque buildings or complexes. A short walk away, Antwerp master Peter Paul Rubens’ grand Flemish home, the Rubenshuis, complete with a courtyard (pictured above), offers a glimpse into 16th century life as well as his art. You can then view the Flemish great’s two vast triptychs and the Elevation of the Cross in Antwerp’s Gothic kaleidoscopic stained glass Cathedral of Our Lady.

Antwerp’s other museums range from the 16th century Plantin-Moretus – its monumental mansion home to some of world’s oldest printing machines as well as many paintings by Rubens, who was a friend of the house – to bang-up-to-date modern MAS (Museum aan den Stroom). This 60-metre red block towered building, complete with 360-degree view terrace topping the Schelde, details a different aspect of Antwerp’s history on every floor.

Another recent addition to the city’s museum stable is the Red Star Line Museum. This details the stories of some of the two million-plus emigrants that sailed from Antwerp to America with this shipping company. It lies in the increasingly trendy Eilandje docklands area north of the city, which earned its ‘little island’ name for being enclosed by the Schelde river, docks, locks and sea canals. The regeneration of the once dilapidated district now honours Antwerp’s mighty maritime history.

Art lovers will be spoilt for choice. Antwerp has three premier museums within minutes of each other. The beautifully renovated Fine Arts Museum (pictured above) oozes priceless works of Breughel and Rubens. Contemporary art and film mecca M HKA is currently highlighting AI-powered art and ‘City Collection Antwerp’. Finally, photography museum FOMU, whose big name exhibitions have included Chantal Akerman and Vincen Beeckman, is currently showcasing Cindy Sherman and Dirk Braeckmans’ work.

Not far away, MOMU will reveal why Antwerp, complete with the ‘Antwerp Six’ – a group of designers including Ann Demeulemeester and Dries Van Noten who trained in the city in the early 1980s – is such a fashion capital. The fashion museum’s autumn show is ‘Masquerade, Makeup and Ensor’. Also reputed as the diamond capital of the world, DIVA - ‘the museum that sparkles’, explains the city’s diamond and jewellery heritage. The diamond district near the station is awash with diamond shops, all carefully shuttered at night.

This is also the main Jewish quarter, with orthodox families everywhere pushing prams or walking in the nearby Stadspark. This gorgeous green haven features lakes, follies and uber-romantic bridges as well as playgrounds and a mini skate park. Other nature breaks in this buzzing city include Park Spoor Nord, created from an industrial wasteland, the Botanical Gardens (pictured above) with goldfish-full ponds and cactus-happy greenhouses and charming Koning Albertpark. Alternatively take a blue break at the imposing Schelde for beautiful river views and walks.

Continuing the watery theme, Antwerp also boasts outdoor swimming spots such as De Molen and Wezenberg Olympic Swimming Centre. It even has a beach accessible via the retro Art Deco Sint-Anna Tunnel near the Grote Markt and its arresting Brabo Fountain/sculpture built by Jef Lambeaux in 1887. This ‘left bank’ Linkeroever district with its post war Modernist tower blocks and peaceful parkland is worlds away from the bustling tourist-full centre.

Another out-of-Antwerp option is Middelheim – a fine combination of green space and art. This sculpture lovers paradise with some 250 big name artworks by Rodin, Henry Moore and Ai Weiwei, is less than 5km from the city. Nearby Berchem is a fascinating mix of stunning Art Nouveau in the Cogels-Osybuurt and cool street art. Special guided walk booklets on both are available from the tourist office.

Otherwise, Antwerp is full of superb architecture – from medieval churches to beautifully Baroque Bourla theatre, or early 20th century terraced houses to le Corbusier’s ultra-modern Maison Guiette or the Renaat Braem Huis. You can also simply marvel at Zaha Hadid’s Havenhuis (pictured above) and the twisted, triangle-windowed Provincial Government building.

If you are hungry or just want a bite before hitting the town – Antwerp has a renowned night life and clubbing scene – the city regorges excellent restaurants. The MAS’s three-star Zilte is one of 17 Michelin-starred establishments. Other popular choices include the Bourla brasserie, the Rubens Inn and eco-friendly vegetarian meccas like HUMM or Camion. Alternatively, eat as many crêpes as you like on the pancake boat or visit one of Antwerp’s endless chocolate or cookie shops for some ‘Antwerp hands’.

The little hand refers to the rather gruesome giant Druon Antigoon legend. Druon demanded a very high toll from ships passing by on river Schelde. If boatmen refused, he chopped off their right hands and threw them into the river. But then Roman hero Silvius Brabo, commemorated in the Grote Markt fountain, challenged the giant, killed him and removed his right hand instead.

Mechelen

A smaller Bruges or Gent with half the crowds but just as worthy of a visit, Mechelen lies conveniently only 20 minutes from the Belgian capital. Along with a ‘mini Meir’ shopping street, it also possesses a lively Grote Markt, dominated by the 15th-century Rombouts Tower and cathedral. The town offers some eight historic churches, a Renaissance city palace and myriad museums on clocks, from contemporary art and toys to the horror of holocaust remembrance centre, the Kazerne Dossin.

Other tips are to wander along the river via the suspended Dijkepad, explore little streets to uncover Rik Wouter’s garden and birthplace or visit the charming Unesco-recognised béguinages. Except for the winter months, you can also ply the city’s atmospheric river in an electric boat tour. Alternatively just drink a Carolus at one of Belgium’s oldest breweries – De Anker or enjoy a meal at the busy 1881-built De Vleeshalle food hall.

Mechelen is proud of its atmospheric town park and arboretum which holds a popular summer festival. Just outside the city lies the extensive 65-hectare Vrijboekpark – a green paradise complete with a beautiful rose garden. Nearby Tivoli domain with its castle, mini farm and bee house, is perfect for a family day out, as is the De Nekker swim and sport paradise.

Animal lovers will adore Planckendael open air zoo – reachable by bus, bike or boat (pictured above). The Orangutan Kingdom is an addition to its animals from all five continents. If science is more your thing, another top draw is Technopolis with endless hands-on experiments. 

Lier

Beautifully unspoilt, Lier is a medieval paradise, with canalside walks to rival Amsterdam’s. It features a wonderful gothic Cathedral, Unesco heritage-listed béguinage and numerous medieval buildings including the Prison Gate, Vleeshuis (a guild house for butchers) and Rococo-façaded Stadhuis. Lier’s quality city museum features paintings by Rubens, Breughel and Murillo.

But top of the town’s cultural heritage list is the 13th century Zimmer Tower with its 1930s Jubilee Clock (pictured above). Clockmaker and astronomer Louis Zimmer’s 1980-classified masterpiece, the Einstein-praised astronomical clock, built for Brussels’ 1935 Universal Exhibition, is next door at the Zimmer Museum.

For a family day out, year-round children’s paradise Kinderboerderij ‘t Struisvogelnest is just a few kilometres away. With traditional farm animals and a rare woolly pig, apiary, insect hotel, bouncy castles and playgrounds, any kid’s potential boredom will be thoroughly kept at bay.

Elsewhere in the province

Turnhout is another unknown treasure begging to be visited, with its grandiose Château des Ducs, vibrant Grote Markt and (another) Unesco world heritage-recognised béguinage and museum.

This De Kempen city also boasts three unique museums – the National Museum of Playing Cards, a Museum of Medical Education, highlighting famous Turnhoutian doctor Paul Janssen’s, contribution to pharmacy, and the Taxandria ‘Hotel’. In this lakeside stately mansion, each room is ‘inhabited’ by a historical character, even a deer. Some ten minutes from the city centre, Turnhout is blessed with a beautiful green belt of forests, meadows, fields and fens, otherwise known as the wetlands.

Other must-see towns are Herentals – with its fascinating ‘world of water’ Hidrodoe museum and Hugo Voeten Art Center and Geel – sporting a windmill and the Hugo Voeten sculpture garden. Geel also features a fascinating Brewery Museum and its own craft brewery, De Vliet.

After a drink, you can relax in one of this enchanting region’s natural oases like Boekenberg Zwemvijver or Deurne’s De Rivierenhof domain, indulge your inner prince or princess at fairytale Westerlo castle or get spooked out by Bobbejaanland attraction and theme park’s Halloween festivities.

Photos: (main image) Central Station City of Antwerp; Rubenshuis; Red Star Line Museum ©Noortje Palmers; DIVA ©Frederik Beyens; Havenhuis Martin Foddanu; Antwerp hands Goossens chocolatier; Mechelen ©Malinska; Planckendael Sepp van Dun; ©Zimmer Tour Visit Lier; Foto Winter Michiel Vanhoudt Herenthals