Kokuban

The name Kokuban means blackboard in Japanese and it’s a name that not only reflects the space’s dark, brooding yet welcoming interior but also the restaurant’s philosophy to offer fresh, uncomplicated Japanese food on every plate, every time.

It’s clearly a popular concept – I went on a Wednesday evening and the place was packed. The service was as polite and efficient as you could expect from somewhere that busy, and the food fresh and tasty. But like its interior, it was absolutely no frills, and I mean that in a culinary sense rather than as a judgement of the quality, which was very good all round.

My dining partner and I started with the gyoza – dumplings stuffed with chicken and vegetable strips – and the tako gari – octopus with pickled ginger salad – both of which were delicately seasoned. I followed up with a bowl of gyudon – rice heaped with marinated shredded beef, which was simple in its execution but bursting with surprising complex flavours. My companion’s tuna zuke-done, however, was a little too plain – she felt it took the tuna-on-rice concept a little too literally and desperately needed some kind of sauce or dressing.

Another big draw to Kokuban is the excellent drinks list. Feeling unadventurous, we stuck to a couple of glasses of the plum wine and house white, but next time I will be sure to explore some of the more interesting drinks on offer, which included sweet potato spirit, various fine sakes and Japanese beers and whiskies.

53-55 Rue Vilain XIIII, Brussels, tel 02.611.06.22; www.kokuban.be