Gastronomy: Le Cor de Chasse offers Michelin dining in rural Ardennes

Winning a highly cherished Michelin star is one achievement; holding on to it is another. But when restaurant hotel Le Cor de Chasse moved from Barvaux to the picturesque village of Wéris in 2013, food critics continued to be wowed by owner chef Mario Elias’s fine cuisine in its latest, magnificent setting. Elias was delighted – if not entirely surprised by the gastronomic bible renewing his coveted star: “Everything is better here, there is more room and everything is new and chic.”

Le Cor de Chasse is certainly spacious. The restaurant’s new quarters are in a renovated castle farm in a small, greystone village near the postcard-pretty town of Durbuy. In addition to the 40-person dining room, there is a large communal table d’hôte with an ample, light-filled kitchen overlooking both. The reception area also leads to nine bedrooms, with three more planned. They include suites and rooms with terraces overlooking the garden, outdoor swimming pool and a breathtaking view of the surrounding countryside. Downstairs there are two breakfast rooms; one with a large fireplace for winter cosiness, the other leading to a terrace for summer residents. There is also space for hosting seminars.

The oldest parts of the building date from the 17th century and the renovation retains many rustic features. They include bare stone walls and enormous fireplaces, while the contemporary decor features stylish lighting and fittings. In one suite, the bathroom is glass-walled to reveal the fine oak mantelpiece and resplendent oval bath sitting in a stone surround. One decorative motif that appears throughout the hotel and restaurant is wood in myriad forms: furniture, beams and the wood relief artworks that adorn the dining room. Outdoor sculptures, designed by the chef, are illuminated at night and visible to diners.

With the Michelin star assured, Elias says his cuisine “can now naturally evolve”. He is a strong believer in local food. “People are no longer familiar with home-grown vegetables. We are starting to grow our own vegetables and herbs here and much of our produce is sourced locally. We can get everything here.” While game is probably the most typical regional product, Elias also likes to use Ardennes pork and bacon in his dishes, and with dairy being the other regional favourite, cheese, milk and butter are in plentiful supply. His cuisine reflects the Ardennes, albeit with a gastronomic angle.

There are two menus: the €55 four-course Discovery (plus €30 with wine selection) and the €73 six-course Prestige (€36 for wine), as well as the a la carte menu. A three-course lunch menu is available during the week at €35 (€54 with wine). Le Cor de Chasse has a cellar of about 150 wines, predominantly from France, with a selection from Germany, Spain and Italy.

Elias changes the menu approximately every two months. “I prefer to take my time; a lot of reflection is required as I never create the same dish twice,” he explains. He is sometimes motivated by a particular product, while other influences can come from top kitchens around the world, such as El Bulli and Noma, as well as from Asian cuisine, and chefs closer to home such as Sergio Herman at Oud Sluis in the Netherlands. “But I don’t follow fashion in cuisine,” he insists.

One of his personal touches is to invite diners to begin by inhaling a perfume such as lemon or mint before feasting on a dish that contains the same perfume. Inventive and adventurous while perfectly fusing simplicity and sophistication, he is no stranger to molecular cuisine for a sense of drama and excitement. Playfulness is another signature touch. Asked to define the key elements of his cuisine, Elias cites “taste, creativity and presentation, in addition to quality ingredients”.

His current autumn menu includes oysters, wood mushrooms, a confit of pigeon served with foie gras, langoustines, fish of the day, venison and sweetbreads. Another signature touch is to combine meat with fish or seafood for a ‘surf and turf’ experience.

Elias and his family – wife Aurore, who heads front of house, and two teenage children – conveniently occupy living quarters adjacent to the kitchen. The couple met while working in restaurants in the Ardennes region, at reputed local addresses such as Château d’Hassonville in Marche-en-Famenne and Le Sanglier des Ardennes in Durbuy. Originally from Ostend, Elias moved to Wallonia as a child. He has an extensive culinary heritage as his parents were in the restaurant business and his grandmother was also a cook. It was in 2001 that the couple launched their own venture in the nearby village of Barvaux, receiving the Michelin accolade in 2008. As one of the most exciting chefs in Wallonia, Elias and his team are now in a position to become one of the region’s leading culinary ambassadors.

This article was first published in the Wab magazine autumn 2013