Myny, who grew up in Dilbeek, just outside of Brussels, learned to cook in his grandmother’s kitchen. That explains the long list of classics filling the menu, from cow udder broth to his famed pig’s trotters.

My dining companion and I opt for five courses, each paired with a different beer. What we get is entirely up to the chef. We eagerly await the first course by nibbling on fresh, crusty bread smeared with butter, all the while admiring the magnificent Art Nouveau dining room.