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Festive fairs: Belgium’s Christmas market season kicks off around the country
Christmas markets herald the start of the festive period in Belgium and are the perfect antidote to the darkest season of the year.
Wooden chalets overflowing with gifts, traditional funfair rides, ice skating scenes, streets festooned with twinkling lights and the scent of spicy mulled wine all create a convivial atmosphere.
The cobbled streets and medieval squares of the country’s towns and cities are the ideal setting for these bustling markets. If the capital’s Winter Wonders extravaganza is the biggest crowd-puller, afficionados head to the provinces. The Flemish cities all boast brilliant winter celebrations, while Walloon gatherings are often jolly affairs.
So shrug off any lingering humbug cynicism, don your warmest winter ware and join the revellers indulging in this year’s Christmas cheer.
BRUSSELS
The capital’s spectacular Winter Wonders transforms the city centre into a vast Christmas village that garners international awards and attracts more than 4m visitors. The Grand Place is home to a traditional tree, nativity scene and evening sound and light show, all dedicated to the 24th edition’s guests of honour: the Var region in the south of France. Some 250 wooden chalets, a Ferris wheel, ice and curling rinks and a packed programme of cultural activities ensure the magic. In addition to the multiple illuminations of Brussels by Lights, the light installation Echinodermus is a new feature at Mont des Arts. Other new additions are the market stalls in Rue de la Madeleine and newly-opened Galerie Bortier plus city hall guided tours. As ever, goblets of spiced mulled wine and lashings of Belgian and alpine specialities supply warming winter fuel. 29 December to 5 January, across the city centre
Snag an original gift at the Brussels Women's Club Christmas Fair, offering a feast of yuletide specialties such as mince pies, home-made cakes, jams and chutneys, hand-made Christmas table decorations and wreaths, craft items and jewellery. Meanwhile, the clubhouse cafe serves lashings of tea and refreshments. 30 November 10.00-14.00, Rue au Bois 509 (Woluwe-Saint-Pierre)
Auderghem hosts a Christmas market – Marché de Noël à Saint Julien in its usual weekly market spot as well as a second one dedicated to Food and Gifts. The latter is graced by a visit by Father Christmas at 16.00 and a light show from 17.30. 29 November to 1 December, Rue Valduc (Saint Julien); 8 December 11.00-19.00 (Food and Gifts),Place Communale & Maison de Repos Domitys (Auderghem)
More than 80 stands overflowing with artisan gifts and eco-friendly and zero-waste items fill Ixelles Christmas Market. The gathering under a heated big tent at Flagey gives pride of place to craft products from Belgium and Europe. A lovely range of quality seasonal bites – tartiflette, pancakes, oysters, Thai food – plus hot drinks and an entertainment programme also await. 29 November to 1 December, Place Sainte-Croix (Ixelles)
For festive sparkle head to The Nine Winter Market as the women’s clubhouse showcases its line-up of vendors and artisans who are all female or individuals from marginalised genders. The design market is perfect for picking up an original gift for all the family, and the elegant venue is awash with seasonal cheer. Registration required. 5 December 17.00-22.00, Rue Archimède 69
The big Christmas creative and sustainable market is a bonanza for artisan and designer gifts organised by the nonprofit Fais le toi-même. Around 100 stands sell local sustainable crafts and decor, while a jolly winter bar supplies mulled wine, food trucks are parked up, and fun activities are on the schedule. 6-7 December, UR Square, Avenue de la Couronne 227 (Ixelles)
The Winter Pop programme is an offshoot of the Winter Wonders celebration that brings seasonal festivities to other corners of the city over three weekends: Place de la Chapelle (Marolles) from 6 to 8 December; Square Ambiorix (EU Quarter) from 13 to 15 December; Place E Bockstael (Laeken) from 18 to 20 December. Festooned caravans transform each square into a party place for all ages with concerts, choirs, film screenings, performances, fire shows, festive walks, face painting and association stands. Glowing braziers, bright lights, appetising edibles and warming drinks add to the atmosphere. 6-20 December, multiple locations in Brussels
Schaerbeek’s Christmas market promotes its local businesses who occupy 40 festive stands spread around Sainte-Famille church. They include tempting places for a tipple and snacks, as well as dance shows and a concert celebrating multiculturality (19.00 in the church). 7 December 14.00-21.00, Square Riga (Schaerbeek)
The Tram Museum runs its third Christmas Market with local artisans plying quality decorative objects, tasty treats and a tram ride. Mulled wine and ‘cougnous’ await at the Tram-O-Bar while a 1935 tram and historic bus take visitors on trips to Tervuren and Stockel. Free entrance for market and museum; €5 for historic rides (free under age of 6). 7-8 December 10.30-18.30, Musée du Transport Urbain Bruxellois, Avenue de Tervuren 364b (Woluwe-Saint-Pierre)
The Christmas Stockel Village offers a heated big tent where visitors can peruse the more than 60 chalets laden with gourmet produce, decor, jewellery, cosmetics, toys and artworks. Creative workshops and entertainment are an additional attraction as are the food and drink stands set up outside. 10-15 December, Place Dumon (Woluwe-Saint-Pierre)
Let it Slow! That’s the slogan of eco-friendly village Be-Here and Greenbizz, who together stage a Christmas Market with locally produced gifts, food and drink. Hosted at the former’s glass-covered sustainable hub behind Tour & Taxis, this is a family-friendly gathering with all the trimmings – ethical stocking fillers, live music, kids’ activities, festive decor, warm drinks and seasonal bites. Santa puts in an appearance on Friday from 15.00 to 18.00. 13-14 December: Friday 15.00-21.30; Saturday 11.00-18.00, Be-Here Rue Dieudonné Lefèvre 4
The Continental Winter Market returns to Place de Brouckère for its second edition. Local and artisan products, original hand-made jewellery and ceramics, knitted accessories, chocolate and tasty winter drinks and snacks are sure to attract city-centre crowds. 13-16 December, Place de Brouckère (next to ice rink)
The most popular seasonal market in Auderghem can be found in the lovely setting of the ancient abbey farm of Rouge-Cloître. Its Christmas Village with 40 stands is filled with artworks and artisan goodies. Don’t miss the craft skills on display and entertainment activities designed for all ages. Father Christmas arrives on his sled carriage each day at 17.00. 14-15 December 11.00-18.00, Rouge-Cloître art centre and farm (Auderghem)
The Association Femmes d'Europe’s annual Christmas Bazaar raises funds for humanitarian projects. Located in the Atrium of the European Commission building, it sells a wide range of seasonal gifts and items, including regional foods, clothes, jewellery, artisanal soaps and more. Don’t miss the tombola draw at 15.00. Refreshments also available. 14 December 10.00-17.00, Rue Joseph II 79
FLANDERS
Bruges
It’s no surprise it was ranked one of the 25 best Christmas markets in Europe by Big 7 Travel in 2023. Winter Glow is a full-on festival with a light trail experience, artificial ice rink, winter bar, Christmas concerts and not one but two Christmas markets. Grote Markt hosts the biggest one and has a traditional flavour, with chalets, gifts and all the usual festive trappings. Simon Stevenplein offers more handmade crafts and artisanal delicacies – as does the Midwinterfeest, an atmospheric market for one day only (8 December) in Ball Street. Some of the surrounding chapels and monuments, such as St John’s House Mill, are free of charge on the day and run special tours. 22 November to 5 January, across Bruges
Hasselt
Winterland opened in mid-November, one of the biggest, loudest and most jovial holiday events in Belgium. For its 16th edition, not only is there a Christmas market, indoor ice skating rink and fun fair – complete with a giant wooden slide and Grand Carrousel for children – there’s a giant Ferris wheel and several cosy winter bistros and bars waiting to welcome you. Dance in the mirror tent or pretend you’re on ski holiday in the Aspen Lounge. Saint Nicholas’ visit on 27 November will give way to those from Santa, who is right at home amid the Christmas Hotel, Santa’s Labyrinth and Santa’s Ghost Village. Check the full programme of DJs, concerts and club nights, including events on the ice. Until 5 January, across central Hasselt
Ostend
The coast’s biggest city boasts a full winter programme including a Christmas market on the Wapenplein with its landmark 19th-century music pavilion, plus a market in Leopold Park. This is where you will find Santa, as well as a magic tree. The traditional Winter in the Park can also be found in Leopold Park, where the skating rink is on a real pond surrounded by some 50 festive wooden chalets. During the holidays, there are special activities here for children. In-between the two markets lies the city’s traditional tunnel of light in Adolf Buylstraat with an impressive 230,000 coloured LED lamps and two light shows a day. 29 November to 5 January, across central Ostend
Leuven
The city promises to ward off the cold dark days of winter with its beautifully-illuminated Christmas market and Winter Garden. Leuven is big on moody atmosphere at this time of year, with its famed beguinage bathed in candlelight on one magical evening and a light trail of glowing installations dubbed (Un)Holy Light with six installations by international artists (14-22 December). Meanwhile, the city’s Christmas market (11-22 December) has more than 100 chalets in Ladeuzeplain and Hooverplein. The Winter Garden on Grote Markt is where you’ll find the nativity and giant Christmas tree. Wintertijd also includes holiday concerts and winter walks. Over at Park Abbey you’ll hear carillon concerts (11 December to 8 January). These pretty grounds are also home to a Christmas market, concert and sing-along on 17 December. 5 December to 5 January, across Leuven
Ghent
Ghent’s Christmas market features holiday-themed fun fair attractions. Step into a human-sized ornament on the Christmas tree merry-go-round, soar above the Corn Market in a Ferris wheel and whizz around a roller-skating rink that’s the largest mobile facility of its kind in the country. There are winter bars among countless other stalls with plenty of seasonal specialities and a smaller, cosier market over on Veerleplein. There’s also lots of free activities! Check out the full programme. 5-31 December, across central Ghent
Antwerp
The city offers an action-packed Winter experience. Belgium’s most sprawling Christmas market winds through streets and squares. If you start your visit from the Central Station, pretty lights will lead you to all the festive action. Don’t miss Hendrik Conscienceplein with its magical fountain, while from Operaplein to Koningen Astridplein, there’s carousels and a Ferris wheel, chalets and cosy winter bars. An entertainment programme includes musical performances and a firework display over the river Scheldt on New Year’s Eve. 6 December to 5 January, across Antwerp
Mechelen
Mechelen Houdt Je Warm (Mechelen Keeps You Warm) lives up to its name with a series of Fire and Flame festivals in the centre of town and in outlying districts at weekends. Mechelen has forgone the notion of a traditional Christmas market, but chalets are dotted in various locations and include stands set up by local community initiatives. Don’t miss the weekend of 13 to 15 December when a number of additional markets enliven the centre. They include one raising awareness and money for development projects in the Global South. Naturally, there are also plenty of winter bars and winter walks along the river and in local parks. 29 November to 22 December, across Mechelen
WALLONIA
Liège
Reputed to be the oldest winter market in Belgium, Liège’s Christmas Village is a convivial feast of attractions modelled on German and Alsatian markets. It’s also one of the biggest with some 150 gift and food chalets plus 300 craft stands spread over five areas. The ardent city attracted some 1.5m visitors to its festivities in 2023. Place Cathédrale hosts the popular light-festooned skating rink and the big wheel is conveniently located in Place Saint-Lambert for a glittering panoramic view. Liège folk have an endless appetite for cold-busting dishes such as raclette, tartiflette and fondue. Naturally, local alcohol pekèt will be flowing along with other winter-warming liquid refreshments. Check out the extensive programme for DJ sets, music and dancing in Place Saint-Lambert. 29 November to 4 January (market until 30 December), across Liège
Durbuy
The popular Ardennes tourist destination is a perfect backdrop for winter festivities with Durbuy Christmas Market specialising in artisan goodies and decorative crib scenes. Among its popular gourmet treats, and not for the faint-hearted, are hot potatoes served with melting foie gras. For the holiday season, a covered ice skating rink is set up in Roi Baudouin park. The narrow cobbled streets of Belgium’s smallest town are also peppered with tempting restaurants offering plenty of Ardennes specialities. Until 5 January, Place aux Foires & Parc Roi Baudouin, Durbuy (Luxembourg province)
Namur
The Walloon capital sparkles with festivities and illuminations across the city. Its traditional Christmas market occupies three areas: Place d’Armes (with a large Swiss chalet surrounded by gourmet and gift stands), Place de l’Ange (home to the ice-skating rink) and Place du Théâtre, where a big wheel is set up this year. A free interactive light trail with surprise elements has magical installations dotted around the city. Its starting point is La Nef in Rue Saint Nicolas (6 December to 5 January). Christmas market 29 November to 31 December, Namur city centre
Charleroi
More than 50 chalets fill the city’s traditional Christmas Village that is accompanied by a busy entertainment calendar. A series of Pop Up Chalets invites new artisans to ply gifts and delicious fare each week, from Christmas cookies and home-made chocolate to pastries and charcuterie. An ice rink graces Place Verte and offers skating lessons plus initiation to artistic skating. The rink also welcomes 20 chalets, adding to the festive bonhomie. 29 November to 31 December, Place de la Digue (Christmas village); 29 November to 5 January, Place Verte (ice skating), Charleroi
Mons
Hainaut capital Mons celebrates the 20th anniversary of its Cœur en Neige. The medley of festive hotspots is spread across five zones in the historic city (Grand-Place, Place du Marché, Croix-Place, Carré des Arts, the Anciens Abattoirs and Place Louise). Around 50 chalets occupy the Grand Place with winter culinary specialities as well as gifts. The surrounding cobbled shopping streets are all illuminated and a covered ice-skating rink graces the Marché aux Herbes, which also hosts DJ evenings under its twinkly sky installation. Place Léopold hosts fairground rides for children as well as Christmas tree and twinkling lights. 7 December to 5 January, across Mons
Ciney
Les Féeries du Parc is a magical event that draws crowds to the castle domain of Parc Saint-Roch, near the market town of Ciney. The idyllic park comes alive at night with glowing trees, illuminated chalets and fairy lights lining winding paths and grand facades. For the seventh edition, 80% of the 280 stalls are devoted to artisan gifts, from jewellery and candles to Christmas decorations, textiles and gourmet specialities. One favourite is mulled wine pimped with flambéed apple brandy! Entertainment includes colourful parades. 5-9 & 12-16 December, Ciney (Namur province)
Gembloux
Restaurant Hors-Champs loves green activities, including its three-day creative and sustainable Christmas market. Staged in a grange, the event is a platform for some 35 local designers and artisans, offering decor, tableware, slow fashion, wine and produce. On the culinary front, you’ll need to reserve in advance for wood-fire cooked flammekueche: info@hors-champs.be. 6-8 December, Chaussée de Wavre 170, Gembloux (Namur province)
Photos: (main image) Ostend Christmas market; Winter Wonders ©City of Brussels; Bruges Christmas markt Wintergloed ©jandarthet; Lons Christmas market ©Ville de Mons/Oswald Tlr