Brussels landmark Les Halles Saint-Géry transforms into a local mercado

Belgium's capital boasts a new culinary hotspot thanks to the makeover of the city-centre heritage building, Les Halles Saint-Géry.

Minutes from the Bourse, the site has long been known as a place in which to wander, see exhibitions, visit associations and have a drink inside or outside on its terraces.

Now, the beautiful neo-Renaissance industrial iron and brick building is going back to its origins as a covered market that prioritises artisanal food producers. For the occasion, the 335m² heritage site has also been given a new name, Marché Saint-Géry.

This downtown landmark dates from 1882. “Back then, in the 19th century, it was mainly home to butchers’ stalls, as it was primarily a meat market,” explained Lucile de Calan, director of the non-profit Culture et Patrimoine.

“Then, little by little, vendors selling eggs, butter and dairy products set up shop, and it became a proper market right up until the Second World War, before closing in 1977.

“Today, with this project to revive the covered market, we are simply reconnecting with our history, while retaining, and this is very important, our cultural activities and spirit,” she told RTBF.

“We’ll continue to hold swing dance classes on the ground floor, a sort of public square, and there’ll also be talks, urban dance sessions, a vintage market and, of course, our traditional plant market ‘Plantes pour Tous’ at the end of June,” added de Calan.

She insists that this repurposed site hoping to attract 1,000 visitors a day is not a food market, “We’re not another Wolf.” Her aim is for Saint-Géry to prioritise serving the local community with food to stock up their fridges and “the choice of taking their fish home to cook it themselves or enjoying a dish prepared on the spot.

“It’s a mercado like those you find in Barcelona or Lisbon,” de Calan makes clear. “A place where people come to admire the architecture and discover local culinary specialities. This was sorely lacking in the city centre, and we’re delighted to fill that gap.”

With a new sign signalling the change when you enter its doors, Marché Saint-Géry offers around 15 stalls with everything you would expect from a traditional market: fruit and vegetables, cheese, meat, fish, bread, pastries, snacks including pizza, ice-cream, and, this is Belgium after all, waffles, chips and cheese and shrimp croquettes.

Most of the retailers have stores elsewhere, including Maxime the cheesemonger. “I really fell in love with this place, which is an iconic spot in Brussels,” he told RTBF. “I think it makes sense to bring together good food shops in one place; that’s why we decided to take the plunge.”

Walloon Brabant-based Couq bakery’s Nathan Charlot agrees: “Baking our bread on the premises is a gamble, a challenge, it’s true. But it’s a magnificent location, and I think this sort of market was missing in this neighbourhood mainly made up of bars and restaurants. We’re all keen to bring a new sense of vitality to the area.” 

Other recognisable names include the brasserie  Bouillon Bruxelles and Kāfēi coffee shop, while fans of US retro style will appreciate the hotdogs at American diner Franky.

All the retailers sell not only produce for the local community, but also offer food to take away or eat on site. Ayoub Fennane, who runs Mims Primeur greengrocers in Woluwé-Saint-Lambert, said:  “For tourists or people who want to eat here, there’ll be a selection of fruit cut up and served in bowls. We’re targeting both types of customer.”

If the venue was a little quiet on a recent visit, possibly due to the current heatwave, more stalls are due to be up and running at the end of June.

As one vendor said, “It has only been a week since we opened. We are happy to be here. Before there was nothing like this.”

The Marché Saint-Géry is open Tuesday to Sunday, from 7.00 (for coffee and bread) or from 10.00 until 20.00 for the other food stalls. Light meals are available from 12.00 until 22.30 and later at weekends.

Photos: ©Halles Saint-Gery