Weekend getaway: Discover Strasbourg, the idiosyncratic heart of Alsace

The capital of France’s Alsace region is a welcoming city with a unique blend of French and German culture, a medieval past and a progressive future. Interlocking waterways, half-timbered Gallic villas and a magnificent Gothic cathedral dominate the Unesco-listed centre, while the gleaming EU institutions are a short riverside walk away. Explore the surrounding countryside, from beautiful vineyards to the mighty Rhine river and the forests of the Vosges mountains, and don’t forget to loosen your belts for a hearty selection of food.

See

Strasbourg’s historic centre Grande Île is surrounded by a canal on one side and the river on the other. The focal point is its red sandstone cathedral, dating from the 11th century. Climb 332 steps to a viewing platform for a panoramic view and catch the chimes of its Renaissance-period astronomical clock at 12.30. Beneath the modern city hospital lies a preserved 15th-century wine cellar, boasting the world’s oldest wine. Then brave the crowds to visit La Petite France, the picturesque leather-tanning district bordering the canal.

Eat and drink

For an excellent fish choucroute, try Maison Kammerzell, opposite the cathedral, or sample the unmissable Alsatian speciality of flammekeuche (a tart with cream, bacon and onion) at Flam’s, Le Gurtlerhoft or Le Gruber. Afterwards, a teatime treat awaits you at the Victorian-style sweetshop Au fond du Jardin with its celebrated madeleines. Académie de la Bière is an institution, while Brasserie des Haras is a contemporary gem. Cheese lovers can head to La Cloche au fromage.

Sleep

If you fancy a bit of R&R with your city trip, Hotel & Spa Le Bouclier d’Or is a fancy option. Another upmarket establishment, Hotel Mercure, is just outside the historic centre but is easily accessible by tram. More central and easier on the wallet is the EtC Hotel, while the Graffalgar Hotel, near the station, offers personalised rooms decorated by a local artist. The no-frills Victoria Hotel is also handy for the station.

Explore

The riverside Vauban Barrage is a 17th-century flood fortification by the celebrated French military engineer. Today, the roof of the pink sandstone structure serves as a panoramic terrace and exhibition space for sculpture. The Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art is nearby. To discover Alsace’s unique culture, visit the charming Musée Alsacien, filled with objects showing the region’s former rural life. North of the city is the Parc de l’Orangerie, with a wide range of attractions for children. Alsace’s famous symbol, the stork, has been successfully reintroduced to the park since the 1970s, saving it from possible extinction. You can also visit parts of the European Parliament for free.